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Value of a resprayed "classic"

Posted by: SubaruKid37  /  Category: Technical




Simple question for those with a ‘foot in the door’ of the more classic car world. This question comes along after visiting the Bonhams auction today on viewing day, (auction tomorrow), and this topic came up, so I thought I would ask on here…

I know Driftster did some work at an auction house and seems pretty clued up on these things.

If one were to take a car such as this 190E 2.5-16 Evolution II, and has the paint stripped and resprayed to a professional level – i.e it would look superb, not a dodgy back street job with paint runs and all that, how would that affect the value of the car?

Keep in mind that these cars are shooting up in value and immaculate low mileage ones are worth a lot more than average quality ones. But I also know that all original cars if kept nicely are worth more than painted cars. That said, if the paintwork is stone chipped, has several laquer bubbles and a few deep scratches here and there, would the car have a higher value with a new paint job or to keep the original, slightly rough paintwork.

The majority of the paintwork is pretty good. It looks like it had a respray on the rear right arch & body trim, it has a slight paint run in it, but that would all be sorted with a proper respray, unless of course there is major damage there.

Other than the paint, the car is clean, no rot anywhere and all the rubber seals are good and no signs of ageing in the important areas…

Couple of pictures for those that like these cars:


P.S. If there is demand for it, I can post up other photo’s from today in a new thread, including the Zagato 575 Ferrari

Problems with BMW’s N54

Posted by: teXas  /  Category: Technical




Class action suit alleges BMW N54 turbo engine unsafe, causes Unintended Deceleration

Quote:

The award-winning BMW N54 inline-six has been a hit around the world since it made its debut in the 2006 E90 335i. The twin-turbocharged engine produces around 300 horsepower and 300 pound-feet of torque and many have actually suggested that the Bavarian automaker’s power figures have been conservative. When it came out, BMW promised this engine would virtually eliminate turbo lag, increase performance and improve fuel economy at the same time. In fact, it was so confident in its new engine that it spread it around, adding it to its 1, 3 and 5 Series cars, along with its Z4 sports cars and X6 crossovers.

Unfortunately, the N54 has also seen its fair share of owner complaints. Most notably, unhappy BMW drivers allege having two very important issues with the wündermill; the high-pressure fuel pump has a very high failure rate and a defect in the design of the turbochargers requires they be tweaked so as not to run at full capacity. Many BMW owners have officially had it with the N54 engine and a class-action lawsuit has kicked into gear.

The lawsuit, initiated by the legal firm of Kershaw, Cutter and Ratinoff, LLC of California alleges BMW produced an engine that suffers from serious defects. The aforementioned fuel pump is evidently prone to failure, and when they go south, the car loses power and goes into ‘limp mode’ since it can’t drink gasoline. Such failures could have serious safety ramifications depending on when and where the pump packs up. According to Autoblog sister site Daily Finance, this isn’t the first lawsuit regarding N54 problems.

According to the law firm, the problem with the turbochargers is that defective examples cannot run at full capacity, resulting in strange noises underhood and noticeable throttle lag. BMW had initiated a software update, which made it so the turbochargers were "fixed," but apparently all they did was stop the turbos from being allowed to run at full tilt. This, in turn, resulted in a loss of power and noticeable lag, one of the very issues the N54′s architecture was designed to eliminate.

Among other details, the KC&L class action (official press release below) alleges that BMW knowingly hid these defects not just from customers, but also from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, and the suit is looking to legally compel BMW into a recall.

BMW officials that Autoblog contacted for this story noted that the company cannot comment on pending litigation, but they did offer us the following statement:

BMW has discovered that certain 2007-2010 model year vehicles may experience partial failure of the High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) which is part of the direct fuel injection system on certain 1 Series, 3 Series, 5 Series, X6, and Z4 models. Specifically, vehicles powered by the twin-turbocharged 3.0-liter inline-6 engine (internally dubbed "N54") are affected. Symptoms include long engine starting times and sometimes the illumination of the Service Engine Soon lamp in the instrument cluster, possibly accompanied by reduced engine performance (Fail Safe operation).

As a result, BMW will extend the emissions warranty coverage period to 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first, on affected vehicles in all 50 States. If the HPFP fails during the extended warranty coverage period, BMW will replace it with a newer-production version. Customers who experience long starting times or notice the Service Engine Soon lamp should contact an Authorized BMW Center to schedule a service appointment. Customers with further questions should contact BMW Customer Relations at 1-800-831-1117 or email customer.relations@bmwna.com.

It’s worth noting that while BMW acknowledges problems with the N54′s fuel pump and is offering affected owners an extended emissions warranty, the additional coverage does not appear to extend to other areas of the engine. In regards to the turbocharger, BMW spokesman Matthew Russell says that:

The turbo complaint is much less widespread and we have had a service bulletin in place since 2007 to address it. In an effort to address specific noise concerns, BMW updated the turbocharged engine software on 335i/xi and 535i/xi models built from June 2006 through March 2008. The updated software causes a small amount of increased "turbocharger lag" under certain circumstances and, while not substantial, the lag may be perceptible to the most sensitive BMW drivers. X6, 135i, and 3 Series/5 Series vehicles from March 2008 production onward are not affected."

We’ll have more on the N54 engine saga as it develops.


Is this the reason BMW developed the single turbo N55?

The Forward March of Technology, 1980 v 2010

Posted by: Ravenous  /  Category: Technical




I thought about writing a couple of bigass paragraphs to preface this discussion, but then I remembered you slackers can’t read anything longer than two lines and isn’t in bullet points.

So… think about the cars of 1980, and think about the cars of 2010. What, do you think, is the most key technological advancement that has affected the automotive industry in that 30 year period?

Some food for thought…

Toyota then:

Toyota now:

Ferrari then:

Ferrari now:

Porsche then:

Porsche now:

About a gauge cluster.

Posted by: AESG  /  Category: Technical




Hey guys, a cousin of mine just bought an xc90, the 2006 model, with the 4.4 v8. it is the ocean race edition, pretty nice cars. thing is, he just wants to make it look better, no performance stuff. he wants the gauge cluster backround to be blue, as in the s60r blue.

http://s60r.fadainc.com/pics/Volvo%20035.jpg

thing is, the whole cluster is too expensive, and he found it in sale, so he just wants to know, what is the name, or commonly called, of the blue parts in the middle of each gauge?? the full cluster is about $250, also available for the xc90, but all he needs is the small circles that are blue. appreciate your help.

A doubt about an engine oil.

Posted by: AESG  /  Category: Technical




Hey pals, I have a question. today i went to get my oil changed, and the guy recommended me a gulf oil, 20w 50, he said it was semi synthetic. it was in fact the only oil he had… my engine was rebuilt about 12k miles ago, so i think it is ok. but gulf oil? never heard of that. any of you guys have? and whats that deal about semi synthetic?? hope you have heard about it. thanks mates.

Fluid Flush Fallacy?

Posted by: n wright 275  /  Category: Technical




Found this article and thought it was interesting.

Quote:

AOL Auto’s:

If you take your car to a shop for a routine oil change you have a high probability of being told your car needs one or more of its critical fluids flushed, changed or serviced. This started originally at the quick-lube shops and spread to the whole auto repair industry, including the dealers.

Part of the reason is technology. New machines have made it possible in most cases to change the fluids quickly and easily, or so the sellers of the machines say. But the real driving force is profitability.

Today I’m changing a timing belt and water pump on a Dodge Caravan. It will take all of five hours of bay time, a lot of parts and a lot of potential liability. In half the time I could do a series of flushes with little effort or liability and make much more profit. Since most people, mechanics and shop owners included, respond to economic incentives, it is coming to pass that every car going to every shop needs every fluid flushed every day.

In short, what is really being flushed is your wallet. It is straining the credibility of an industry that rightly or wrongly has always had credibility problems.

The Four Flushes

Old-timers from the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s always knew it was a good idea to periodically drain the radiator, put a bottle of flush chemical and water in, run it a half-hour then wash it out again with plain water before refilling it with the proper mix of antifreeze and distilled water. Or if you wanted to do a really nice job you could cut one of those plastic flush tees from a Prestone flush kit into the heater hose, allowing you to hook a garden hose up and run a continuous flush.

Now these old-timers are being told their transmission fluid, power steering fluid, and who knows what else must be flushed on a yearly, monthly, or even daily regimen. Strangely, their ’77 Olds Cutlass managed to run 180,000 miles without all this attention.

Now don’t get me wrong. I am in favor of changing most fluids at 30, 60, and 90,000-mile intervals, regardless of what the owner’s manual says. But that is not what’s happening. These services are being oversold to a degree that is bound to damage the reputation of our industry to the net result that consumers will not believe any of us, even when we are telling the truth.

The Rundown

Let’s start with the automatic transmission — the most frequently flushed fluid besides the radiator. The advent of the transmission fluid exchange machine was a great step. In the past, automatic transmission fluid could only be changed by removing the transmission oil pan, which only holds three to six of the eight to 10 quarts in the transmission. The second you started the car, the new fluid mixed with the old, eliminating much of the benefit of the service.

The fluid exchange machine, which some people choose to call a flush machine, cuts into the transmission cooler line at the radiator. As the car runs, old fluid goes out into the waste tank while new fluid is simultaneously pumped in. If the shop is really thorough, the car is lifted and actually driven through all the gears while the exchange is taking place. And if the service is done properly, the transmission oil pan still has to be removed and cleaned and the filter replaced — a solid hour and a half of work. So if a quick-lube shop is offering it to you in 35 minutes, something’s not being done.

Now, as to checking the dipstick for color or smell to determine if your fluid needs to be changed: At the extremes (not changed for 100,000 miles or changed yesterday), you can tell. But as far as whether it was changed 3,000 miles ago or 20,000 miles ago, no one can know, and if they say they can, they are lying.

Power steering fluid in general is not listed in most maintenance schedules as needing periodic replacement, although there are some exceptions. But we have a machine for that now too, so expect to be told you need your power steering fluid flushed. Look, if every three to five years (45,000 to 60,000 miles) you change your power steering fluid, that’s not a bad idea. And replacing it with synthetic fluid, if allowable, is even better. But you certainly don’t need to do it yearly or even every two years.

Brake fluid lives in a sealed environment because exposure to moisture will ruin it. No one ever dreamed of messing with it until Hondas became popular, and Honda for some reason does call for brake fluid replacement. Now we have (you guessed it), a brake fluid flush machine. If your factory manual calls for it, by all means, change your brake fluid. Other than that, leave it alone unless you are having brake repairs done, in which case changing it may not only make sense but be necessary if the hydraulic system has been compromised.

It is not enough that you are changing your oil every 3,000 miles. Now when you go for your oil change they want to hook up a motor flush machine to clean your oil system out. Strange, my ’63 Valiant didn’t need that. Look, this goes under the category "If you need it, it won’t help" — and thus sales are being encouraged on vehicles that really don’t need it. If an oil system is dirty enough to have deposits of sludge forming, you’re only going to get the sludge out by removing the valve covers and oil pan and scraping it out. Any stirring up of the stuff without removing it is likely to do more harm than good.

Stocking Stuffers

I had an oil-change guy who lasted about a month. Every time a truck or sport-utility vehicle came in (the only vehicles left with a classic differential), he would call me over, waving his finger at me after having dipped it in the differential oil, saying "it needs a differential service," as if he who barely knew how to open a hood would know. Evidently it was a service heavily pushed at his last place of employ.

On a military 6×6 doing heavy duty in Iraq, differential oil needs constant attention. On a domestic SUV whose only off-road experience is driving onto the grass at the soccer field, just follow the owner’s manual or change the fluid every 60,000 miles. The exception would be if you tow things or if you submerge the differential by backing a boat into the water.

Oh, and the transfer case fluid need only be changed at the required mileage or 60,000 miles.

Avoid the Wallet Flush

The easiest way to avoid having your wallet flushed is to try to stay with one shop that you trust, and keep good records. Now I know that even my best customers occasionally go elsewhere for an oil change when my shop is not convenient. So if you find yourself in a strange shop being told that the very lives of your children depend on your getting a particular service at that moment, just walk away.

Well, actually, that would be a tough one. But a new customer is often viewed as fresh meat, since all their existing customers have been flushed into the next galaxy. The harder the sell, the more you must resist. And believe me, the sell can be pretty rough. They can come at you with test tubes of fluid samples, and with pH strips whose color change indicates you are seconds from disaster (all provided by the flush machine manufacturers). Even my sister-in-law, whose toughness and command of Arabic swear words sent Egyptian border guards scurrying for cover, succumbed once.

And to the people in my industry, the owners and shop managers, I say, "What is it going to take? Another ’60 Minutes’ or ‘Nightline’ exposé where they go shop to shop and find out how many flushes they need after chemically certifying the fluids as new? Do you know how tough business is gonna be after that happens? Try thinking a little farther ahead than next week’s bonus check."

Doug Flint owns and operates Tune-Up Technology, a garage in Alexandria, Va.

http://autos.aol.com/article/fluid-flush-fallacy/


I found this while looking up what people said about power steering fluid flushes.

My dilemma was/is that I had my tahoe worked on and the repair shop (which I trust .. they do good work) and they told my all my fluids looked fine (before I had a chance to check, and after a dealership had told me to flush all the fluids!).

Then I got a new battery installed at a tire/auto place and they came out and told my my power steering fluid needed to be changed (it is light brown).

The owners manual on the other hand doesn’t say anything about power steering fluid flushes in the scheduled maintenance.

So I got curious and looked up what people were saying on the internet and found this article.

I was wondering what people on SCF think about fluid flushes (some are obviously important but it seems like people have divided opinions on others).

2 stroke V12, 1.5 liters

Posted by: Venom 1000  /  Category: Technical




I have been reading about superkart engines lately.

Specs for a standard superkart engine:

2 cylinder
250 cc
90-100hp
15,000 rpm
380 hp/liter

So I was thinking, what if you put 6 of these tiny engines together and made a 12 cylinder out of it? Even detuned to 350 hp/liter the engine would still theoretically make 525 horsepower and be smaller and lighter than most economy car engines. So, I guess what I’m getting to is, would it be feasible to put an engine like this into a lightweight car (sub 2000lbs) with a sequential tranny + slicks and call it a home made race car? Not to mention it would sound freakin good. I mean, a V12 at those rpms would sound good enough, let alone one that’s 2 stroke.

Oh, and just a quick edit to add something here. If the car you installed it in is from the 1960′s emissions wouldn’t be a problem, meaning that if you had a good set of street tires it would also be street legal.

New Sound System?

Posted by: TheApprentice1  /  Category: Technical




Hi all,

My step-dad owns a 2008 Audi TT 3.2 Quattro, and him and my mom both love it. The only problem is, the sound system in it is absolute junk. My step-dad is a really logical guy and doesnt believe in unnecessary spending (such as a new sound system on a $40,000 car). So what I am trying to do is figure out what a good, cheaper sound system would cost and where to get it from.
I dont know much about speakers at all so I’m looking for advice on which ones produce the best sound for the cheapest price.
They would need to be compatible with the car, available in Canada, and not too pricey.
I dont know what the prices range from, but we arent looking to install a huge sub in the back, only to replace the current speakers with a few that can produce louder, better quality sound.
If you could let me know any websites, speaker packages, or better brands, that would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Wheels/Tires thread

Posted by: VTEC_Dreams  /  Category: Technical




This is something that could easily go in the Misc. Questions thread, but it really is such an ongoing discussion that I thought it deserved it’s own thread.

Tires are a purchase everyone has to make at some point, so this thread will be a great reference for people about to take the dive and buy a set of tires for their car. Being that there are approximately twenty billion trillion tire manufacturers that make ten to the fifteenth power kinds of tires, it will be nice to have a place to break it all down and talk specifics, so let’s do that. The more detail oriented, the better.

Also, as enthusiasts, wheels are kind of a big deal. They absolutely make or break a car’s appearance, and they’re also important because they can also completely change the driving dynamics of a car with their weight, size, and width. I think it’s important to discuss these aspects.

So, the rules for this thread are this–>

We’ll talk about wheels and tires. Simple. More specifically, tell us what you recommend based on real experience. It’s easy to read reviews online, but it’s better to discuss with others about what you’ve personally liked and disliked for your car, what brands you’ve had good luck with, and what recommendations you can make for others. Discussions are what make this forum great, so let’s have some!

As a side note, I’d also love to have a group of links for websites to purchase QUALITY wheels and tires, as there are a TON of places to get both, and sometimes it’s impossible to tell what’s good and what’s not. I’d love to base this on real-life experience, but the reality is that most folks just get tires from their local garages and don’t bother ordering them online. That said, if you have heard good things about somewhere, or know of a place to get good stuff for cheap, post it up!

So, get rolling! (ha, ha)

List of websites–>
———————————
www.tirerack.com

Car Cleaning/Detailing Thread

Posted by: n wright 275  /  Category: Technical




I’m pretty sure I have done one or two of these threads before, asking what everyone uses to clean their cars. Its time for another one.

As some of you know I detail cars, as a part time summer job it makes me decent money for the hours I put in, its nice being able to have a flexible schedule as well. I do kind of basic stuff (not major paintwork and scratch repair or anything). Enough about me..

Cleaning your vehicle is one of the more important things to me. You get more value out of it by keeping it up, and with proper care you can make a 10 year old vehicle look or stay brand new.

What is everyones favorite cleaning products? Inside, outside, wax, polish, etc.

What are some techniques?

___________________________

I invested in a few things to help me out.

Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher 7424 XP

I have used Meguiars compound and swirl x with this on a pad that is supposed to remove small scratches and swirl marks. I also apply wax with it and makes it a synch, you can use a lot less wax and get a nice result with a DA polisher.

If you need to clean your rims that have excessive break dust and etc. look for a wheel cleaner with acid in it. It isn’t safe on all rim types but is with most. You’ll be safe if you have plastic or ally. The acid cuts through tuff buildup that cannot be cleaned off with just soap and water

Turtle Wax makes a rim cleaner called Ice that will get the job done.

I also bought an electrical power washer, makes cleaning rims, engine bay, and bug tar easy.

I started using Adams buttery wax. It brings out the paint very well, protects it a long time too (its got Carnauba). It can be applied in sunlight and will not mess up any plastic/rubber parts on the exterior. Its a little pricy at $25 a bottle (including shipping) but I like it.

I was using microfiber towels, I switched to diaper towels, I’m not sure which ones I like better. Right now I’m leaning towards the diaper towels.

From my experience most liquid tire shines will provide the best shine. The downside is they do not last as long, the gels last longer and can be applied easier. Stay away from turtle wax gel though, it is cheap and does not do a good job. Armorall is my choice. I buy liquid shine for the wheel wells and the gel for the tires.

I’ll probably add some more stuff later.

Hopefully I’ll be able to pick up my ‘new’ vehicle tomorrow, I’d like to give it a good wash/claybar/polish/wax treatment and see how it comes out. It probably doesn’t need all of that but it’d be nice to do.

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